三泰虎

从丹东一瞥朝鲜:中国和朝鲜形成强烈反差

三泰虎6月13日译文,印度时报文章《从丹东一瞥朝鲜》。朝鲜仍是谜一般的国度,但是从隔着鸭绿江的丹东望去,可以一窥这个神秘王国。当我们靠近朝鲜水域时,导游对我们喊:“看到朝鲜士兵时把照相机收起来”,“别拍任何军事设施”。由于靠近朝鲜新义州,丹东的旅游业迅速繁荣。两座城市只隔着鸭绿江,有的地方甚至只有5米之遥。以游客身份进入朝鲜并非不可能(旅行社可以带团去朝鲜,会帮你解决签证问题),但费用通常相当高昂。没有陪同人员的情况下,游客不能到处逛。

译文来源:三泰虎 http://bbs.santaihu.com/thread-6661-1-1.html
外文标题:Dandong A peep into North Korea
外文地址:http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2013-06-11/travel/31026824_1_dandong-north-korea-sinuiju




丹东 丹东

North Korea remains as enigmatic as ever, but the view from Dandong, separated by the Yalu river offers a revealing look at the hermit kingdom

Keep your cameras away when you see a North Korean soldier!" "Do not take any pictures of military installations!" Those were the orders barked by my otherwise affable guide as we neared North Korean waters near Dandong in China's North-eastern Liaoning Province. An entire tourism industry had sprung up due to Dandong's proximity to the North Korean city of Sinuiju. The two cities are separated only by the Yalu River. Along some stretches, the distance apart is as little as five metres.

While it's not impossible to enter North Korea as a tourist (travel agencies offer tours to North Korea and they will settle your visas for you), the cost is often prohibitively high, and tourists are not allowed to venture about without a chaperone. And given all the stories about North Korea's nuclear ambitions and its pariah status, it's no wonder the country is not packing in the crowds.

朝鲜仍是谜一般的国度,但是从隔着鸭绿江的丹东望去,可以一窥这个神秘王国。

中国东北辽宁省丹东,当我们靠近朝鲜水域时,除此之外算是友善的导游对我们喊:“看到朝鲜士兵时把照相机收起来”,“别拍任何军事设施”。由于靠近朝鲜新义州,丹东的旅游业迅速繁荣。两座城市只隔着鸭绿江,有的地方甚至只有5米之遥。

以游客身份进入朝鲜并非不可能(旅行社可以带团去朝鲜,会帮你解决签证问题),但费用通常相当高昂。没有陪同人员的情况下,游客不能到处逛。考虑到朝鲜的核抱负以及被世人所遗弃的状况,这个国家没有吸引大批游客也就不足为奇了。

朝鲜战争时使用的坦克【原文配图】 朝鲜战争时使用的坦克【原文配图】

The other side

However, interest in the North has always been high, more so after the recent death of Kim Jong-il. So along the Dandong riverfront, enterprising vendors have set up shop offering North Korean memorabilia, from North Korean banknotes to badges bearing the images of the Kim Jong-il and his father, the founder of North Korea. And for just RMB 10 (S$2), you can peer into a pair of binoculars and see what the other side looks like.

But little did I expect that I would be a stone's throw, or in my case, a pack of cigarettes' throw away from North Korea when I took up an offer by a travel agent along the riverfront to have a closer look at the hermit kingdom. For RMB 100 (S$20), the agent had promised a boat ride along the river that separates the two countries.

另一边

然而,人们对朝鲜的兴趣向来很高,金正日最近死后更是如此。沿着丹东河岸,有事业心的商贩开设了卖朝鲜纪念品的商店,从朝鲜纸币到镶有金正日父子头像的徽章应有尽有。只要花10人民币(2美元),你就可以通过双筒望远镜窥见对面是怎样子。

但是,当我答应旅行社沿着河边更近地观看这个神秘王国时,我根本就没有预料到我还会离朝鲜投一石块的距离,或者说投一包香烟的距离。旅行社答应沿着这条将两国分隔开的河流乘船观光,费用是100人民币(20美元)。

The embarkation point was about 20 minutes north of downtown Dandong, along a seemingly unguarded part of the border. For the first ten minutes or so, the boat cruised down the length of the river before it abruptly turned east and headed towards the North Korean shore - a move that should perhaps be considered alarming.

But when I saw how the eyes of the two middle-aged South Korean tourists in my group were flashing with excitement, I figured I was going down a well-trodden tourist route.

The North Korean side is perhaps as expected, given the reports of food and power shortages that have been coming out of the reclusive state. There are only a couple of ramshackle peasant huts and a few concrete bunkers. This lies in stark contrast to the Chinese side which contains several shiny high-rise buildings, countless vehicles and is generally bustling with life.

乘船点距离丹东市区大约20分钟的路程,似乎是边界上无人值守的地区。前十分钟左右,船沿着河流巡航,随后突然调头向东,朝着朝鲜河岸驶去——这也许该被视为令人惊恐的举动。

当我看到旅游团里两名韩国中年游客的眼睛闪烁着激动时,我明白了这是一条游客常走的线路。

考虑到这个封闭国家传出缺少食物和缺电的报道,朝方应该也同样期待(我们的到来)。对岸只有几座摇摇欲坠的农屋和混泥土碉堡,与中国这一边几栋闪亮的高楼、无数的汽车和熙熙攘攘的生活形成了强烈反差。

The smoke screen

But even though Sinuiju, as glimpsed from the river, is generally devoid of the human activity, what it does have are soldiers. And two beckoned to us as we got closer. A wave of apprehension arose within me. But it turned out that they merely wanted cigarettes, which my guide threw to the ground from the boat. Other North Korean soldiers continued squatting on the ground, staring blankly.

Back on the Chinese side, my guide said that this sort of black-market trade is extremely common along the border. In return for items like cigarettes, rice and liquor, the guide is granted safe passage to ferry sightseeing passengers right onto the doorstep of North Korea. However, according to news reports, a much more lucrative trade in drugs as well as expertly forged US dollars also takes place along this border.

烟幕

从河这边望去,新义州基本上看不到有人活动,不过能看到士兵。我们靠近时,有两位士兵向我们招手,我的内心焦虑起来,结果他们只是要烟,导游从船上把烟扔到地上。其他朝鲜士兵继续蹲坐在地上,眼神茫然。

回到中国一侧后,导游跟我说黑市交易在边界沿线非常普遍。导游以诸如烟、大米和酒之类的东西作为交换,从而获得将观光游客送到朝鲜门口的安全通道。然而有新闻报道称,边界上还发生更加有利可图的毒品以及美元伪钞交易。

Anti-climatic Dandong

Being the largest Chinese city along the North Korean border, Dandong is said to be teeming with spies and undercover agents searching for defectors. But while all these activities might appeal to your inner 007, the reality is more mundane. It's just a regular third-tier Chinese city albeit with lots of North Korean influences which you can't escape from.

据称,作为朝鲜边界最大的中国城市,丹东到处是搜查叛逃者的间谍和卧底。也许这一切会令你想到007电影,但现实情况更加平凡。尽管朝鲜的影响大到你难以躲避,但丹东只是中国普通的三线城市。

The main attractions all revolve around North Korea and the Korean War. So there are sights like the Broken Bridge, which was bombed by the Americans during the Korean War to frustrate Chinese support for North Korea, and the Museum Commemorating the War to Resist American Aggression and Aid Korea (what a name!). There's also a North Korean restaurant run by actual North Koreans and there's even a stretch of the Great Wall that runs along the Chinese-North Korean border. But these are side attractions to the main draw, which is the inscrutable country to the east. Watching the sun set and with the innumerable neon lights of Dandong lighting up the streets, I watched as North Korea descended into darkness. The only lights came from the trucks that were exiting North Korea via the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge. I recalled the stories I've read of starvation, gulags, power shortages and nuclear bombs. But if even Uncle Sam can't figure out North Korea, how could I? So I turned my back on North Korea and re-embraced the capitalist world of modern China.

主要景点围绕着朝鲜和朝鲜战争展开。你可以看到朝鲜战争时为了挫败中国人对朝鲜的支持而被美国人炸断的的桥,还有纪念抗美援朝的博物馆(名字碉堡了)。此外,还有一家由朝鲜人开的朝鲜餐馆,中朝边界上甚至还有一段“长城”。但这些只是附加景点,真正压轴的是东边的神秘国家。看着夕阳落下,丹东无数的霓虹灯点亮了街道,朝鲜一侧却陷入一片黑暗。唯一的灯光来自经中朝友谊桥离开朝鲜的卡车。我回忆起了以前读过的有关饥饿、古拉格(集中营)、电力短缺和核弹的故事,可是就连山姆大叔也读不懂朝鲜,我又怎么会懂呢?我转身背对着朝鲜,重新拥抱现代中国的资本主义世界。

Getting there

FLY from Beijing to Dandong in less than two hours. There are two trains a day from Beijing - one takes 14 hours, and the other over 21. The 14-hour K27 train departs at 5.30pm, and arrives in Dandong at 7.15 am the next day.

如何去那里

从北京飞丹东不用两小时。每天有两列开往丹东的火车从北京发出——一列耗时14小时,另一列要超过21小时。耗时14小时的K27车次从下午5点30分出发,第二天早上7点15分到达丹东。

以下是印度网民的评论:


本文论坛地址:三泰虎论坛 http://bbs.santaihu.com/thread-6661-1-1.html



manab (bnglr)
nice article...but again very less info about north korea!!
Agree (17)Disagree (1)Recommend (2)

好文章....但有关朝鲜的信息太少!

BSKAR (chattisgarh)
when i was in Beijing one year ago there were lots of advertisements on TV about the new port of Dandong.
Agree (3)Disagree (1)Recommend (1)

一年前我在北京,电视上播放许多关于丹东新港的广告。

TJ (usa)
Its such an irony, you write about they not letting you take pictures of military setups, and talk about the sunset and beauty etc, but the only picture that you post for the readers is that of a battle tank!
Agree (23)Disagree (0)Recommend (9)

真是讽刺,文章说他们不允许拍军事设施,所以转而描写日落美景,但仅有的一张配图却是一辆坦克!

karthik BR (Espoo)
I dont know who will dare to go and visit North Korea.
Agree (7)Disagree (1)Recommend (2)

不知道谁会敢去朝鲜参观。

Indur (Jaipur) replies to manab
If you have North Korea Visa than even you can take train from Dandong to Pyongyong & have more information about this country. But one thing is sure & have seen that from Dandong Chinese are putting lot of investment to other side of Border! That is reason Chinese are advertising North Sea Port of Dandong to ferry goods to other part of world from N.Korea!
Agree (4)Disagree (2)Recommend (3)


拿到朝鲜签证后,可以从丹东坐火车去平壤进一步了解这个国家。从丹东的亲眼所见来看,有一点是肯定的,即中国人在边界另一边投入了巨资!这就是中国人为丹东海港做广告的原因,许多物质会从朝鲜运到世界其他地方!



matt (usa)
North korea cannot be tamed simply because North korea is "person's" home that is i Kim home, if he allows any kind of outside influence he is doomed so there is no way to communicate with them.
Agree (2)Disagree (1)Recommend (1)

朝鲜是驯服不了的,因为它是一个人的国家,也就是金胖子的国家。要是允许外部影响进来,他就死定了,所以根本就没法和他们沟通。

govind.srinivasan (Chennai)
Hmmm.... poor North Korean people. Economically poor is tolerable in a way, but being kept arrested in a dictatorial country is a pure suffocation.
Agree (4)Disagree (0)Recommend (0)

可怜的朝鲜人民,经济贫困在某种程度上是可以忍受的,但在专制国家遭逮捕会令人窒息。

Slippery EEL (Bangalore) replies to TJ
I don't think he has been there. He probably copied the article from the internet and posted it here.
Agree (6)Disagree (0)Recommend (2)


我认为他(本文作者)没有去那里,可能是从网上抄来的,然后在这里发表。



VIKASH (maine)
A very interesting peep and read on North Korea!
Agree (2)Disagree (0)Recommend (0)

非常有趣的文章,可以一瞥朝鲜!

chuttyfanta (Saudi Arabia)
I dont why always US and its allies are showed as Hero of the World and Islamic Nations, Russia, China, North Korea, Cuba are shown as terrorist of the World
Agree (7)Disagree (8)Recommend (5)

不知道美国及其盟友为什么总是以世界英雄的面目出现,而伊斯兰国家、俄罗斯、中国、朝鲜、古巴却被披上恐怖国家。

Samik Mukherjee (Pune) replies to chuttyfanta
Because autocratic states fails in long term, whereas democratic government survives. It is a wrong perception, that USA, UK, France, demonizes,KSA, North Korea, former USSR. These commies, monarchies, are autocracy, where there is nothing called civilian concern.
Agree (1)Disagree (1)Recommend (0)


从长远来看,专制国家会失败,而民主国家会存活下去。美国、英国、法国妖魔化沙特、朝鲜、前苏联的看法是错的。这些共产党国家、君主制国家都是独裁的,根本就没有所谓的民生关注。


Nature Lover (Mumbai) replies to chuttyfanta
It is just because of democracy where people are treated with freedom unlike these communist and Arabic nations.
Agree (2)Disagree (0)Recommend (0)


因为人们在民主国家享有自由,而共产国家和阿拉伯国家没有。


sam (melbourne) replies to chuttyfanta
Because even though there is corruption, there is a minimum assured living standard in US and European Nations, No one is let starve, die because of no treatment. While none of these nations assure minimum living standard to its citizens, even the oil rich gulf Countries & Russia.
Agree (4)Disagree (4)Recommend (0)


因为欧美国家即便存在腐败,人们也有最低生活保障,不会因无人管而饿死,而那些国家统统没有给人民确保最低生活标准,连石油丰富的海湾国家和俄罗斯也没有。


scintels (India) replies to chuttyfanta
Because that is a fact.
Agree (2)Disagree (1)Recommend (0)


因为这本来就是事实。


no way (india) replies to chuttyfanta
Why would the hell would I want to go to North Korea? I'd rather go to South Korea, or Japan.
Agree (2)Disagree (1)Recommend (0)


为什么我要去朝鲜?我宁愿去韩国或日本。



ashishbanerjee66 (varanasi)
hope Jeremy had valid visa papers carried with otherwise it was impossible to touch the bodyline of North Korea. sometime ago 2 or 3 Koreans without valid visa papers entered North Korea and were put behind bars. Only when Bill clinton reached Pyongang that they were released.
Agree (1)Disagree (0)Recommend (0)

希望Jeremy随身带了有效签证,否则不可能靠近朝鲜边界。以前有两三名韩国人未带签证就进入朝鲜,结果被投入监狱,比尔克林顿去了平壤后才被释放。

B.N.Roy (nagpur)
I don't know whether the Chinese are helping North Korea , or making Dandong an internationally famous city for tourism, by converting it into the stepping stone for North Korea(NK). I do not believe that the Chinese govt is so benevolent to help NK.

不知道中国人是在帮助朝鲜,还是想把丹东转变成进入朝鲜的踏板,从而将其打造成一个国际著名的旅游城市。我不相信中国政府会如此好心去帮助朝鲜。

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