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新闻洗涤报记者访华:令人震惊的中国(2)

我在天津,一个1,400万人口的城市,几个星期前我都从来没有听说过这个名字。这个城市人均GDP(15,000美元)高于中国其他任何城市,甚至高于北京和上海。我以前遇到的或者我访问中国天津后遇到的(印度)人中,没有人以前知道还有个叫天津的城市。通过漫步这座城市的商场、公园和公共广场,我和这座城市零距离接触。我简直不敢相信,天津这样一个异常繁华大都市,居然和大多数印度人看的KBC八卦节目一般(让人索然无味)!

译者:L0op8ack   作者:ANAND RANGANATHAN
来源:http://www.ltaaa.com/bbs/thread-246413-1-1.html
外文:http://www.newslaundry.com/2012/10/electric-china-part-ii/


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【注:第一部分参见:新闻洗涤报记者访华:令人震惊的中国(1)

In preparation for my China visit, I had immersed myself in Mao: The Unknown Story, a riveting biography by Chang and Halliday. I was eager to finish the book while still in India – it is banned in China – and truth be told, the prospect of a midnight knock on my hotel room door made me think twice about lugging the book along. I chose the harmless autobiography of Naipaul’s editor instead.

在准备我的中国之行时,我已经沉浸于 张(?)Halliday合写的精彩绝伦的人物传记-《毛:鲜为人知的故事》

我急于在印度读完它 - 这书揭露了真相,在中国这是禁书。
我再三思量是否要带着这本书去中国,毕竟要冒被半夜敲门的风险。最终我还是选择不带,而带上Naipaul版的(毛)传记。

The Unknown Story paints a devastating picture of the man whose sphinx-like face stares at you from every Chinese currency note. In short, Mao, if death had not intervened, would have destroyed and obliterated the country otherwise known as China, and would have killed even more people than the 70 million he managed to through his twisted policies. Mao was a poet – as I learnt through this masterful work – which goes on to prove that only bards can cause so much devastation through their creative writing; prose writers are slight and inconsequential in comparison – let Arundhati try and convince people to embrace anarchy, ultra-Left ideology, Marxism, and collectivisation as effectively as Mao. (Wait a minute…)

《鲜为人知的故事》描绘了一个恐怖的画像,每张中国纸币上都有他那张狮身人面像般的脸。


简而言之,如果没有翘辫子,他会彻底摧毁和抹去这个称之为中国的国家,通过他制定的那些畸形扭曲的政策,会被杀死的人民将远超(实际的)7000万。


毛是一个诗人(poet 双关语:空想家)


我通过了解他的”伟大业绩“学习到 - 只有诗人才能仅仅通过写作就引发这么大的破坏,相比之下散文家就显得那么无足轻重了。
让阿伦达蒂(印度:恶灵)试图说服人们接受无政府状态、极左的意识形态、马克思主义和像毛一样的高度集权。(等一下...)


Here is one of Mao’s early poems, when he was young and impressionable and merely crystallising his thoughts and ideas that would later compel his people to eat each other in desperation during the great famine that followed the great leap forward.
Sorrow, piled on my pillow, what is your shape?
Like waves in rivers and seas, you endlessly churn.
How long the night, how dark the sky, when will it be light?
Restless, I sat up, gown thrown over my shoulders, in the cold.
When dawn came at last, only ashes remained of my hundred thoughts.
Not bad, is it? Which is why it came as a surprise a few hundred pages further down in the book, when the same genial rhymester said this:
“Do unto people what you would never do unto you.”

这里是毛早期的诗。当时他年轻、敏感,这首诗凝聚了他的思想和方法,这些思想和方法以后将迫使他的人民在大跃进之后的大饥荒中绝望地互相残食。


《虞美人·枕上》
堆来枕上愁何状,江海翻波浪。夜长天色总难明,寂寞披衣起坐数寒星。
晓来百念都灰尽,剩有离人影。一勾残月向西流,对此不抛眼泪也无由。
挺不赖,是吧?这就是为啥这书在几百页之后给了一个大惊喜,(在那页)这位和蔼的打油诗人说道:己所不欲施于人


He may be praised to the skies in Chinese schools, worshipped at politburo gatherings, but the naked truth is that Chairman Mao’s imprint on China is now but a watermark on her currency notes. It is unthinkable that all this economic progress would have happened under his keen eye and nod. Max Plank once famously said: “Science proceeds, funeral by funeral.” So do nations that are burdened with the legacy of beatified leaders who see progress only through their narrow eyes and narrower viewpoints. Sooner or later people start worshipping their leaders and stop following them. For China to become the future it was crucial that Mao became history first.

他可能在中国的学校中被捧上天,在共党政治局会议上被顶礼膜拜,赤裸裸的现实是:毛留给中国的印记仅仅是中国纸币上的一个水印而已。
难以想象的是,后来的一切经济发展都在(纸币上)他敏锐的眼光和点头下进行。


马克斯.普朗克(Max Plank)曾经说过一句名言: 科学前进路上尸骨累累。所以,国家要背负短视又视野狭隘却被美化的领导者的遗债。
人民迟早会一边崇拜他们的领导者一边遗弃他。中国要有未来,首要的是让毛成为历史上第一个(这种领导人)。


I am in Tianjin, a city of 14 million that I hadn’t heard the name of a few weeks ago. It has a GDP per capita ($ 15,000) higher than any other city in China, higher even than Beijing and Shanghai. And no one I met before or since my visit to China knows of Tianjin. Seeing the city up close, strolling through its malls, parks and public squares, I find it hard to believe that an incredibly prosperous metropolis is for most Indians a KBC trivia! Figuring out this conundrum is not easy, and hours of skull-knocking makes me conclude that unaccounted, unimaginable, disposable, disposed wealth is to blame.

我在天津,一个1,400万人口的城市,几个星期前我都从来没有听说过这个名字。这个城市人均GDP(15,000美元)高于中国其他任何城市,甚至高于北京和上海。


我以前遇到的或者我访问中国天津后遇到的(印度)人中,没有人以前知道还有个叫天津的城市。


通过漫步这座城市的商场、公园和公共广场,我和这座城市零距离接触。我简直不敢相信,天津这样一个异常繁华大都市,居然和大多数印度人看的KBC八卦节目一般(让人索然无味)!


搞清楚这个难题是不容易的,经过若干个小时思考后,我得出结论,不计其数的、难以想象的一夜暴富,是难辞其咎的。

An Indian city, you see, is unique; its USP is its culture, the crumbling state of its buildings, the distinctive architecture, the civility of its residents, the mishmashed display of its filth and opulence. Every city, from Allahabad to Mysore, has a peculiarity, a certain buzz that makes it unique and different from other cities. Its people display a range of skin colour, facial features, dress codes, spitting acumen, road wisdom, eve-teasing expertise.

印度城市,你明白,都是独一无二的。特立独行就是它的文化,摇摇欲坠的建筑,造型挺别致(铁岭话读)的房屋,居民的礼节,秽物和财富的混搭展示。


每一个城市,从阿拉哈巴德 到 迈索尔,都有自己的个性。每个城市都有与其他城市不同的嚣闹声,它的人民有不同的肤色、五官、着装规范,随地吐痰时的造型,抢道的智慧,强奸犯的的专业知识等等。

With wealth though, comes parity, comes uniformity – everything glistens, one building shines just like another, one road is as smooth as the next, every car is an Audi. Wealth erodes individuality. Tianjin is like Beijing is like Shanghai is like Hong Kong, from the airports to the railway stations to the bus depots, from the cars and the buses on the roads to its manicured street flora to the glowing shopping malls. Wealth, money, gold, possessions, they are the great equalisers. When the belly of its residents is full, the city ceases to have an underbelly. And Tianjin glistens just like one more studded diamond in the Chinese tiara. It’s all the same to you after a while. Beauty begets boredom.

虽然财富带来平等,也带来同质化 - 一切都都是土豪金色,每一栋楼都和其他一栋楼一样发着相同的夺目光彩,每一条路都和其他路一样光洁平整,每一辆车都是一样的牌子Audi。


天津和北京、上海、香港也是一模一样的,无论是路上的汽车和巴士,还是机场、火车站、商场,甚至路边修剪整齐绿化带都是一样的。
财富,钱,土豪金,财产,他们是伟大的均衡器。居民被喂饱之后,城市不再有一个软肋。


在中国镶满钻石头饰上,天津只是其中一个。


只要稍看几眼,对你而言,都一样。审美疲劳。

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The buildings are immense – when they are not tall they are impossibly wide, like the Tianjin Museum or the Tianjin Convention Centre. But the beauty, if you must, is state-orchestrated, like East Germany on steroids.

建筑是巨大的 - 不高就不会堆出那么多,比如天津博物馆、天津会展中心等。


至于审美,都是经过国家精心策划,就像东德的类固醇(体育)。

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